Friday, October 4, 2013

Civitavecchia (Rome), Italy: Friday May 10, 2013


Jessie is taking over this blog today. This morning, we had an early wake up, and as we got ready we could watch both the sky get light with morning and our ship’s arrival into Civitavecchia. We prepared for our tour and did some last minute cleaning in our cabin for the sanitation happening later that evening. Laura was miserable. Her cold prevented her sleeping much, and she couldn’t breathe. Yesterday, we purchased some Italian cold meds, and even they didn’t seem to touch her symptoms today. She was very conflicted on going on the trip or resting, but seeing as the ship needed to be empty of passengers, she had to go. Therefore, she packed up her boxes of tissues and cough candies and tried to be eager to go.

We had a quick breakfast in the Lido buffet this morning with Laura and I eating Japanese Congee (like a porridge made with chicken broth and rice). Laura topped hers with Jalapanoe peppers, and those had a fiery reaction to her sinuses. After breakfast, we ambled over to the main stage, from where our tour would commence.  It is nice to think that we will have one tour from the ship, and not all externally booked. It is even nicer to think that it is FREE! J

We got on the bus, and Laura luckily seemed to get a corner of the bus all to herself, so she didn’t have to worry too much about her cold symptoms. For much of the tour she took it easy and relaxed and Hildy and I paid more attention to the guide’s informative lecture. The tour was going to be entirely on the bus with a little free time by the Vatican, finishing off with a provided lunch.

As we travelled the 75 minute trip into Rome, our tour guide told us about the lovely country side that we were passing through.  The rolling hills, lush farmland and trees were so picturesque and it was pleasant watching the scenery drift by. We learned that Civitavecchia means “Old City” and aptly because it has been in use as the main port city for Rome for over 2000 years. Unlike the port city where the Tiber river flows into the ocean, Civitavecchia is rocky and deep so large ships may dock. The mouth of the Tiber River (whose Port name means Ox’s mouth – though I don’t recall the actual name) is sandy and not functional for this purpose. Roman troops would port in Civitavecchia and then travel a few days to Rome. On route, there were some healing springs in which they would wash. These springs are located in the Italian countryside and are still in use today and free to the public. They heal(ed) skin irritations and other maladies, and were very valuable to the ancient world in a time of much less advanced medical capabilities.

Our guide’s name was Massimo or Max, and he told us that the countryside was full of tombs belonging to the Etruscans, the ruling power before the Romans. I believe he said that these tombs dated around 800BC. He also pointed out castles that belonged to one of the ruling families (not quite as renowned as the Medici, but the Roman equivalent) who had seven castles and owned most of the countryside. They would collect taxes, etc, from whoever farmed their lands. When Italy was unified over a century ago, they gave the land back to the country, but kept the castles. Apparently Tom Cruise was married in one of them.

Arriving in Rome we had to drive quite some time still to get to the original city center. We saw the original walls of the city, back from Roman antiquity. Massimo even showed us the Etruscan walls a little further in, which were in further disrepair, but it was very interesting to see the development of Rome and how it has grown over time. We also saw a beautiful church, with stunning colonnades and a breathtaking mosaic piece along the façade of the building. The church is one of the seven  most prominent of Rome (there are many more than seven, but there are seven main ones, apparently). The mosaic was predominantly bright gold, and stunning against the grey morning.

We drove by many of the sights that we had walked on our previous time in Rome. It was nice to get to hear the history of all the places we had already perused. First we saw the Roman Forum, or palaces of the past Emperors. Right beside it was the chariot race track – the Hippodrome, I believe. Apparently each Emperor wanted to add a personal touch to the palaces, so they became massive over 900 years.

Though we only quickly drove by it, Hildy was entranced by the Royal Rose garden of Rome, which holds 20000 varieties of roses. The colours as we passed by were phenomenal.

We also drove by the Coliseum. Like a modern stadium, it could hold 55,000 spectators at once. It was well organized, as each visitor had a number to a corresponding arch from which to enter. This meant that the full theatre could be emptied within ten minutes! Furthermore, it was free to go in, but the seats where sectioned by class and gender, women only permitted in the top of the stadium. The stadium was built around Nero’s personal swimming pool (about the size of a lake). I don’t recall, but perhaps this is why it could be filled to reenact naval warfare. The outer wall of the coliseum is destroyed on one side, due to an earthquake. It is also called the “Swiss Cheese Ruin” because the stone is pock marked. This is because there used to be metal rods decorating and supporting the structure, but they were removed by vandals.

Other sites we saw included the Arch of Constantine, the ruin of the first shopping mall ever, and then the center square where the large victory monument stands. What we thought was the parliament building previously is actually a victory monument, which today hosts two separate museums. The belly of the bronze horse in front of the monument is actually the size of a bus! Massive! This square was also the site of Mussolini’s apartments and Michelangelo.  He stayed in this square for much of his life, and even died there, though his body rests in Florence.

Afterwards, we drove around some of the ritzy areas of town, which host outdoor eating venues and the most expensive hotels. Then we drove around the Borghese Gardens, where we were told about the impressive gallery therein. Someday I would love to spend some time there because, amongst other things, they have the biggest Raphael collection. The Borghese grounds are mostly open to the public today, and are very expansive, even holding a zoo. The family still exists and have a (lovely, I’m sure) private home on the grounds. Just a peak into the wealth of the Catholic church, but one of the Popes (was there a Borghese Pope?) gave the entire park, all decorated, to his nephew as a gift. Incredible!

After a little more driving around, the bus let us off near St. Peter’s Basilica. The church is massive, and I think that nothing in Rome can tower over it in height. The dome was created by Michelangelo, and holds over 400 steps to get up. The church can hold 65,000 people. The line was far too long to go in, but this is where Michelangelo’s Pieta is. We thought this was the line for the museum last time we were here, but it is just to get into the church. Hildy was sad that we didn’t have enough free time during our visit this time to go in.    

Before we were left to our own devices, Massimo showed us mosaics close up. The fine work put into them was incredible. Then we went off on our own. We searched for a farmacia (Pharmacy) for Laura to buy herself more meds, then did what we do best – a little souvenir shopping! Our free time was quickly over after our casual strolling, so we headed with our tour group to lunch.

Our lunch was good for the fact it was free, but it wasn’t stellar food in the end. The free wine was good, but I was sorely disappointed by the Tiramisu that tasted like chewy foam and fake whip cream. Way to ruin my favourite cake! I had more wine instead of dessert.  The best part of the meal was Hildy’s reaction to Espresso – I caught it on film!

 The trip back to the ship was pleasant, and we headed back to our (now sanitized) rooms. Laura immediately got into her PJs to try and sleep off her cold, but we realized that there was a mandatory safety drill occurring shortly and Laura had to get dressed again. Afterwards, we had a laid back night, having dinner in the Lido. We got Hildy another book from the ship’s library to read, and enjoyed a pleasant time just in our stateroom that evening.


 Jessie, logging off!

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